Becoming Fool of Love: A tour of Prague

The astronomical Clock is a beauty!
(but it's inaccurate, because it was made with the Earth as the center of the Universe!)
P.S. Kepler lived in Prague.

After two nights spent in Prague, I think I am beginning to adapt. I still get lost when I go for walks, but at least I have learned how to say "Good day" and "Thank you"

"Dobri den!"

"Djekui!"

On my first night, I went out to the famous Cross Club. The [quite lovely] receptionist at the hostel gave me all the information to get there by tram. In that exotic Czech accent she added: "Beware of pickpockets, and if someone asks you for a cigarette, give it to them." The problem is that I decided I wouldn't buy any more tobacco after Germany. (That's another story I've been wanting to write!! People in Berlin smoke A LOT.)

The Cross Club is famous for its interior sculptural designs made of recycled iron, wood, and ceramics. It's a whole lot of car and computer parts, along with moving lamps and neon lights. Everything in there is a sculpture! The music? It was good! It was listed as Dubstep but I thought it slightly different than what I've experienced in the Bay Area; it was more brutal, more... industrial. There was also a video-montage: bombs and soldiers and petroleum and oil spills and executions and consumerism... I danced, and I shed some tears. I stood there among Czechs, moving to the hardcore sounds and samples of some French DJ-drummer duo... an immensity of feelings about humanity, our histories, and our common future.

I met a nice Czech couple at the coat check; they were retrieving their slackline! We took the tram back together, and chatted a little bit. Apparently, she is the best [female] high-liner in Eastern Europe, perhaps of all Europe. They invited me to play the next day, on some island I could walk to. I said I'd love to come.

But then I didn't. Oh well.

Old Town Gate
at night.

I set up my alarm yesterday morning, because I wanted to join one of those "free walking tours" of Prague.

I made myself a German breakfast: dark bread, cheese, and [bio] salami; and then walked to the meeting point: a Starbucks coffee shop. [...]

Our guide took us around relating the history of Prague,
which he peppered with "dark pieces of trivia."

Old Town Square with its vendors of local delicacies:
"Old Prague ham", "Haluski"(dish of potatoes, sauerkraut, and pork),
"traditional nuts", sausages, and the intriguing "Trdelnir" (a pastry heated up over charcoal!)

Old Town Square at night.

I must say that my first impressions of Prague had been a bit hesitant. I hadn't expected anything in
particular, and the architecture looked very beautiful indeed... but only as long as one looks above the shopping windows! I wasn't surprised as much as saddened. I didn't come to Prague to shop at H&M or Lacoste!

But the guided tour eased my way further in...
I am absolutely uneducated when it comes to architectural styles, so I was glad to be introduced to some of the concepts of Art Nouveau, for which Prague is renown: lots of curved lines and structures that are meant to harmonize with the natural environment. It is a "busy" styles with lots of details, and I like it a lot.

Art Nouveau

looking out on the Vltava River

looks heavy..

And of course, the political history of the Czech people is incredibly fascinating. It's a shame I only have four days here, because I am starting to feel very curious and inspired to dig deeper. For this is a history of slow and difficult emancipation. First, there was Jan Huss. (Ever heard of the Hussites?) He, was a priest, a philosopher, a University master, and a reformer. He was, before Martin Luther, the first Church reformer.

He was judged for heresy in 1415, and condemned to be burned at the stake.

Jan Huss

A lot happened here. I can't go into all of it now, unfortunately, but I'd like to list significant eras:
Prague was once the seat of Holy Roman Empire (during the Gothic and Renaissance era),
It became the capital of the Habsburg (Austrian) monarchy/Empire between 1583 and 1611. Prague was also the center of the Autrio-Hungarian Empire, until WW1, after which it became the capital of Czechoslovakia, which was occupied by the Nazis during WWII, and then by the Soviet Communists. The Czech Republic came into being in 1993.
That's about 1,100 years of fluctuations. Some periods were times of great prosperity. Others were harsh occupation.
I wish I could stay longer and learn more about the Czech psyche...

Kafka memorial
Makes me want to read more of his works...

Different windows...

The tour also included a stroll through the Jewish Quarters (Josefov), which in itself has undergone many changes over the centuries. Jews are said to have settled there as early as the 10th century. They were persecuted and segregated during the Crusades, and again later during Nazis occupation. "Luckily" for the neighborhood, good ol' Adolf decided to leave its buildings standing, as a "exotic museum to an extinct race."

Oldest Synagogue in Prague

AND

Residence of the legendary Golem

A Hebrew clock spins in the opposite direction!

After the tour, I kept exploring on my own. I walked another landmark: the St.Charles' Bridge, and on the other side I bought an overpriced [styrofoam] cup of hot wine... which, giving the cold temperature, was just perfect!

Prague's Castle is the biggest castle in the world.
It has long been the seat of whatever king, emperor, or leader
the Czech people have lived under.

St.Charles's Bridge in the background
Empress Ev in the foreground ;)

The bridge is populated with street artists and crafts.

Indeed, a sight to behold.

On the north side of the bridge... camera galore.

Czech puppet theater is notorious...
will I get to see a play?

On my walk, I found also found this:

Apparently it is a new tradition in vogue throughout many European nations. Couples who get married carve their names on a lock and leave it on a bridge. I wonder if they keep the key in a jar at home.